we're not in queens anymore

The Shanghai subway system is like an amusement park. Tons of people waiting to get on a (subway) ride. On a Saturday. But just imagine every day being like Saturday. It's absurd, and a little scary! It's also interesting because people here are so used to "one man for himself" - if you don't think that way, you're not getting anything or anywhere. Sometimes I think it's sad how overcrowded Shanghai is. There are simply too many people around, and sometimes the crowds really obscure the beauty, culture, and essence of this city. I guess it's just that you have to look harder to be able to appreciate what Shanghai has to offer. You know how it's difficult to do that in NY sometimes, but that no matter what, you still love NY somewhere in your heart? Well, it just takes twice that amount of time to love Shanghai. Isn't that right? Well, at least for me anyway!

I remember in New York, the busiest time of day was my morning ride from 96th to 137th Street on the unpredictable 1 train. Sometimes it'd be late, and maybe 5 times out of the year, you'd have people packed on the platform waiting for the train. And then there'd be some pushing and cursing at 7:30 in the morning. And I'd just roll my eyes and deal with it for the next two minutes, after which the car would mostly clear out and you'd have room to breathe again.

It seems that in Shanghai, people don't curse when it gets crazy packed. I've been in People's Square at the WRONG time (evening rush hour) and been convinced I was going to die. But no, people find it completely normal to rush the doors of the subway the second it opens, therefore preventing others from getting out, therefore making you force your way, sideways, upside down, whichever way you can get in, only to be packed like sardines for a looooong time. Because as far as I know, there isn't really one station where everybody gets off - you know, like a Lexington Ave or a 96th Street. Nope, crowded all the way. Quiet too because no one can even move, much less have a free hand to answer a cell phone. (Yes you get reception down there. No, it's not cool, it's hell listening to other people's conversations.) No one really curses, not even when you get smashed to the walls by people squeezing to get out at the next stop, because this is normal Shanghainese life. Acceptance. Haha. Sometimes I laugh. Because I've accepted it too.

I was on Line 3 the other day, which is above ground where I live, coming back from a shopping trip down Nanjing West Road. I realized suddenly, that I was sitting. I swear, I've only ever gotten a seat on the subway about five times. Five times in four months. No joke. That meant the subway was (fairly) empty. It was dark already, even though it was only 5:30, and as I looked out the window, I was sorta reminded of those quiet trips home on the N/W in Astoria. How grateful I always was to be out of the tunnel and to see the lights and the life of the city from above. It was almost like that here that night. I felt (almost) at home? Well, maybe not at home, but it felt...ok. I could breathe! And that was a big step for me.